So photos all round at the Source of the Po at Pian del Re (King's Plain). It just comes out of some rocks. Alistair filled his water bottle here.

It's a lonely place and clouds were drifting across our view of the plain. In fact, the weather was getting mistier and the air was starting to get a bit chilly, so we put on light tops.

It's now downhill all the way back to Paesana 25km. We set off hoping for a lunch at the Rifugio near by - but being out of season, it was closed. So we went down some hairpin bends to Pian del Regina (Queen's Plain) but the Rifugio there was also closed (though occupied). Big sigh. So downhill to the village of Crissolo where there was bound to be a bar or restaurant etc. Surely?

It was getting even colder and the windchill was something real. So we stopped to put on ALL our clothes and double gloves. However, Alistair still lost sensation in his hands and feet as they were so cold.

Crissolo was definitely out of season. Everything closed. Big problem, hypothermia and hunger. However a resident told us that up a different hill road there was an open restaurant. Uphill! Good thing we had e-bikes. Indeed we found the restaurant. Too late for lunch, but they kindly made us "Toast" ie Croque Monsieur. Thank you as we thawed out.

More fast downhill free-wheeling to Paesana, but still with a notable wind chill. Returned our bikes and shivered our way to the hotel for a cup of tea and hot shower.