Day 11 of possibly 17 cycling days along the Via Francigena from Piacenza to Rome. 

We enjoyed our Pecorino, ham and Panforte on a fourth floor terrace with a view of the big tower. 

We set off in good time downhill marvelling at those Tuscan hills. Morning coffee followed and then we set off along a gravel road. These Tuscan hills are criss crossed by proper clay/gravel roads. There are cycle tourists who specifically come here to use gravel bikes on these gravel roads. Apart from the big busy main road, that’s all there is. They wander in a leisurely way up and down small hills and between farmhouses. The ups can be remarkably steep and the downs have to be negotiated carefully because the wheels can slip from under you. 

We had been watching a black cloud approach and heard the approaching thunder with concern. We got into our waterproof gear. And we just made it to a fantastic trattoria for lunch and sat the storm out over lunch. Well, also cake. And another coffee. Eventually we set off in sun, but the rain had turned the clay/gravel roads into - well, clay. This immediately stuck to the tyres, frame, panniers, us and everything with a thick layer of small stones embedded in thick clay. The wheels would spin in the clay climbing upwards. The clay and stones wedged between tyre and mudguard and stopped the wheel. And the hills were very steep and long at this point. It was tough going. 

And then Masoud stopped suddenly. Something had broken. It turned out that his rear fork had snapped, the rear wheel was not attached to anything on one side. The derailleur was dangling loose and had got caught in the spokes and got bent along with the spokes. End of bike. 

Fortunately, we were only 500m from a remote winery. After pleading, the owner resuscitated an old jeep and took Masoud and his bike to our B&B. This took a couple of hours to sort out. Ruth, Anna and Alistair set off to cycle the three remaining - and longest hills to our destination. And then the heavens opened again and it rained heavily all the way to our destination. Of course, on arrival the sun came out and everything started to steam. 

Nevertheless, there was no personal injury, we sorted ourselves out in the B&B, stuff drying everywhere and had a cup of tea and some emergency Orio biscuits. 

What next? Not clear. But we will enjoy dinner first.

Or not. San Quirico is in the middle of a Tuscan foody zone. Six bijoux upscale trattorias with 5/6 tables in each serving elaborate Tuscan regional specialties. They had no room, it was too late, no we couldn’t have a drink etc etc. We managed to buy a good bottle of local Montalcino red wine and waited 20min for a takeaway pizza. Enjoyed a glass of wine in a bar whilst waiting. Actually a great end to a challenging day.

Ruth & Masoud are planning a trip via public transport to their car in Massa and hoping to join us later on. They are leaving their bikes here and will collect by car. We will proceed on our own tomorrow.