Day 4 of possibly 17 cycling days from Piacenza to Rome along the Via Francigena.

The weather for today had three yellow warnings, one for rain, one for thunder and one for wind. We were also planning on combining two stages into one. So we were ambitious. Our B&B hosts were great, we were staying in their spare room. Proper home stay. We had strolled around the tiny town finding just closed bars and pizzerias. What were we going to eat. Fortunately we did find a restaurant and discovered it was famed for its gastro cooking. So we had a great meal. There were several groups of other Via Francigena pilgrims in the room. As we approach Rome, we are coming across many such pilgrim groups. We hardly saw any until now.

After breakfast, the clouds came in and the view disappeared. It rained heavily. We set off with misgivings. As we pedalled slowly uphill towards the first of two mountain passes today, the cold wind was gusting hard and the rain came in waves along the road as though someone was playing a fire hose on the surface. We reached the pass and paused to admire the view, but in the clouds, there was no view. We spoke to several groups of pilgrims and visited a chapel dedicated to cyclists. Many cycling jerseys on the wall. We set off down a 20km downhill route. Pot holes meant we had to be cautious and the wind was gusting and knocking us about, even requiring us to pedal downhill at times. We got very cold. My hands went white and lost sensation. I could hardly feel I was braking. Fortunately we reached the delightful medieval town of Pontremoli at the bottom and thawed out in a pasticceria by the cathedral.

Onwards along the narrow valley floor via a messy route avoiding motorway, railway, main roads and a closed road eventually arriving in Aulla on a former rail track.

Aulla disappointed. No cute old town, streets of closed shops and bars. Once again we wondered if we could get food. We did find the sole eatery and this turned out to be an upmarket fish restaurant with remarkably modest prices. I enjoyed a sea food skewer.

We were cold, damp and Anna had definitely not enjoyed the last hour. We reviewed the options. Follow a published cycle route which was nothing other than cycling along a heavily trafficked and narrow main road along the valley floor. Alternatively to complete our ambitious plan of a very steep climb to another mountain pass, after 55km so far today. We were unsure. We looked at the valley main road and were dismayed. We looked at the start of our mountain pass climb - another main road with articulated lorries pausing to squeeze past each other mirror to mirror. We opted for the mountain pass leaving this other main road after a few km and a large tailback of traffic behind us. And so the grinding climb began. It was steep, to the extent that we were tacking from side to side up the steepest bits, pausing for drinks and cake at times. We did get there after about an hour somewhat relieved but due to the wind, also very cold. We got a few views of the sea and Lerici where we plan to go tomorrow. Our final long 12km downhill ride to our destination of Sarzana. Cold, windy, again my hands lost sensation but we made it. Immediately we had an Aperol with nibbles before we collapsed exhausted. Showered and recovered we enjoyed a further upmarket meal at the restaurant under our B&B - the rooms belong to the restaurant. A good end to a hard day! 1,100m climb.