It is 18 months since we completed the first alpine section of the River Po from its source to as far as Chivasso.

Finally, we are setting out again - Part II - to cycle further across Northern Italy following the path of the River Po.

Together with us this time are friends Ruth and Masoud. The furthest they have cycled before was an 8 mile cycle ride with us a few weeks ago. They are very keen to experience cycle touring having heard of our trips. They recognise that they are not so fit. Masoud also has some significant medical conditions. As a consequence they bought themselves good quality Raleigh electric touring bikes - at great second-hand prices. They’ve had advice from us about kit and clothing etc. They drove down from Manchester to Aosta in a van and arrived two days ago. Yesterday we went for a 35km “dress-rehearsal” test ride down the valley from Aosta to the atmospheric castle at Fénis and back. It all went reassuringly well. No additional kit or tools needed. Just some tissues and baby wipes to clean oily fingers after a chain came off. They managed the 35 km with no difficulty and enjoyed the ride - even though it was overcast and cold with a wind chill of about 0°C. The lunch at the trattoria in Fénis helped of course.

So we continued with the plan to cycle across Northern Italy. We don’t really know how far we will get and we don’t really mind either. We packed the van with our four bikes last night and got up early this morning. Final packing and re-packing of panniers as we figure out the priority status for space in the panniers. It doesn’t take us long as we’re practised but Ruth and Masoud needed time to experiment with different options. Anna took the bus and train to Chivasso as the van only seats three. We are dismayed, possibly discouraged by the weather. It’s dreadful. Snowing up in the ski resorts (60 cm expected) and heavy rain and 4°C in Aosta itself. However as we drive to Chivasso the rain eases to a steady rain instead of a downpour. We all meet up in the station car park and assemble our gear on the bikes. We immediately empty our panniers to put on more fleeces and waterproof jackets and trousers - and warm gloves in addition to cycling gloves. A quick coffee at a bar so we can use their toilet facilities, an selfie and eventually we leave at 10:30am. In the steady rain.

The planned route takes us off road which in theory is a great idea. Along our stretch today, the extensive flat agricultural land on the north bank of the Po is used to grow rice for risottos. The fields are flooded “paddy fields” but there is little evidence of rice just now. But all these fields are linked by an extensive network of gravel tractor tracks which follow the river all the way along. Our planned route uses these. However, in the heavy rain, they are waterlogged and have frequent and occasionally deep puddles. We are making slow slippery progress and getting a little muddy. We decide to switch to the small tarmac roads which link the little villages and towns on the edge of the agricultural area. We are making much easier and faster progress, but have to put up with a little traffic. A pretty reasonable compromise we are all happy with. The rain eases. We strip off waterproof gear. We remove a fleece or two. Lunch at Crescentino was in a very busy cheerful restaurant with swift efficient service. Panini all round. We are in good spirits. The rain has stopped. We have completed a third of our distance. It seems just fine. Let’s go. We make rapid progress on the quiet roads (some a little busier) and pause for a drink in Trino with just 15 km to go out of our planned 60 km. This seems easy and straightforward now! We had been prepared to take a train to our destination if we were tiring (the route parallels a railway line which stops at the villages we pass through). However, we were in great form and pedalled on to Casale Montferrato. We stopped at an upmarket tea room specialising in a local liqueur and a local biscuit. They helpfully combine these with hot chocolate, coffee and zabaglione to create a hot sweet alcoholic drink that is “eaten” with a teaspoon. Yum. We leave, thoroughly thawed for the final few km to our out-of-town hotel in the industrial zone.

thus is a motel style hotel. As this is Easter week there were limited options on Booking.com for four people in two rooms and needing bike storage! Third floor apartments won’t do! However motel style meant we could wheel our bikes into the room straight off the road 👍🏻. Washing, showering and drying, then we were ready for supper. We walked a short distance in the industrial park and found a trattoria which soon filled up with locals. Without ordering it, we were presented with 8 or 9 delicious large plates of antipasti which we rapidly devoured. We then struggled through a bowl of pasta each before calling a halt. We were very full. The bill was however more pricy than expected 🤨. Off to bed with just minor aches and stiffness.